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After the Harvest in Mendoza
Jane Townsend ![]() One of Mendoza's many public parks Mendoza, Argentina's prime wine producing area, in late autumn is beautiful. The air is crisp, the leaves are changing, the harvest is over and the wineries, as always, are happy to provide tours and tastings to visitors. Remember autumn in South America is spring in the northern hemisphere, so if you are looking for a taste of fall before the long, hot summer, head south. Most people arrive in Mendoza via air. Mendoza's new and modern airport is a 1½ hour flight from Buenos Aires or a 50 minute flight from Santiago, Chile. You can also cross the Andes from Santiago to Mendoza in a private car, hired van or by regularly scheduled, air-conditioned coach. In good weather it takes about seven hours and the views are spectacular. The best way to begin a visit to Mendoza is with a city tour. The Province of Mendoza is a series of man-made oases, land reclaimed from the surrounding pampas by smart water management. The Huarpe Indians first channeled the plentiful water from melting snow in the Andes into a series of canals in this desert-like area to irrigate their crops -- potatoes and corn. During the 1700s the Spaniards arrived and expanded the clever network of irrigation canals to allow for commercial production of wine, brandy, fruit, flour and olive oil and trade with Buenos Aires was established.
There are more than 90 wineries registered with the agricultural department of Mendoza so there's an enotourism vacation to suit everyone's taste - from backpackers visiting the free tours with tastings to full-scale, first-class gastronomy adventures, you'll find it all in this scenic area.
On a recent trip to Mendoza we visited small boutique wineries, vineyards producing well-known export brands and bodegas with their vine's well-established roots deep in the Mendoza soil. Our brief sampling can't begin to cover the possibilities Mendoza holds for travelers seeking to sample Argentine wine. We first visited wineries in Luján de Cuyo, near Mendoza, where the oldest wineries are found, and then proceeded to vineyards in the Uco valley. |
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Luján de Cuyo Bodega y Cavas de Weinert
Located in a 1890s era Spanish colonial winery building, previously owned by Mendoza's family Otero, Bodega y Cavas de Weinert was founded in 1975 by Don Bernardo C. Weinert, a Brazilian-born entrepreneur of Swiss and German ancestry. Weinert, a wine enthusiast, extensively researched wine producing areas before settling on the Luján de Cuyo property. Once acquired, he installed the most technologically advanced winemaking equipment available at the time. Today you'll see barrels of wine stored in the epoxy-lined concrete tanks used by the original owners to ferment wine. The thick walls provide insulation from hot Mendoza summers. While walking among the huge oak casks, note the small access door at the front of each barrel. Men of a certain physique (flexible with small shoulders) wriggle through those doors each year to steam clean them and then scrape away the year's sediment. http://www.bodegaweinert.com/
Bodega Septima
Luigi Bosca
In 1901 the Arizu family arrived in Luján de Cuyo from Italy and purchased a flour mill more to harness the power generated by its windmill to irrigate the grape vines they brought from Italy than to process grain. The vines flourished and the winery is a fourth generation family business since. Visitors today will find a one acre demonstration vineyard next to the winery. Inside the winery barrels of wine are stored in the underground tunnels that once carried water to power the mill. Visitors may also tour the colonial building that has housed the winery for decades. There's also art on display in the cellars where guests may view "Wine Via Crucis," artist Hugo Leytes' 14 panels depicting wine making and its relationship to the Stations of the Cross. http://www.luigibosca.com.ar/
LaGarde Winery
The tasting room is in a portion of the original owner's home. Black and white photos trace the vineyards history of the winery and a broader range of wines are offered for tasting than in some of the other bodegas we visited. Ask for a peek into the home's original dining room, which is still used for hosting dignitaries and VIPs. |
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Lodging and Dining Where to Stay... There are many places to stay in Mendoza's wine country ranging from budget to first-class. We booked two of the newer properties - one in Lares de Chacras near the Luján de Cuyo wineries and one in Tunuyan in the Uco Valley.
Lares de Chacras
Lares de Chacras is a family owned and operated small hotel. Situated within an easy walk of the center of Chacras de Coria, one feels at home upon entering through the huge wooden door. Plexiglass panels in the floor reveal the wine cellar below and warm colors, attractive artwork and walls of natural stone and timber welcome guests. The staff is even more welcoming. We arrived late and hungry. Although not equipped for full restaurant service, they offered to prepare pizza or tartes. We opted for both and a bottle of local wine. The pizza, layers of sauce, mozzarella, ham and fresh tomatoes on a home-made crust, and the tarte - corn the first night, spinach the next - were plenty for us after a day in the crisp autumn air tasting wines in Mendoza's Luján de Cuyo. http://www.laresdechacras.com/index.asp
Valle de Uco Lodge
The lodge's kitchen serves excellent food in a dining room where, on chilly evenings, huge logs burn in the fireplace and, in the morning, eggs are cooked to order. The staff is helpful, there's Internet access in the lobby and the beds are fantastic. http://www.postalesdelplata.com/
Dining...
It's hard to find a bad meal in Argentina - even McDonald's hamburgers are made with Argentine beef. We enjoyed many wonderful dining experiences but one in particular stands out.
Cava de Cano | |
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