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The Galapagos Islands

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Baltra Airport -- Tame Airways buses transport passengers to the dock and the adventure begins.

First Impressions

Very few destinations offer so much for today's adventurous traveler as the Galapagos Islands. Travel brochures describe a natural paradise teeming with both marine and land animals that have no fear of humans and which may be observed in their natural habitat. Promises of an opportunity to view sea lions, penguins, giant tortoises, huge land and marine iguanas and a variety of birds, including the red-and blue-footed booby, frigate birds and the magnificent albatross, are the main attractions, but brochures can't capture the magic and wonder of the Galapagos.

The best way to experience the Galapagos is by cruising on one of the vessels licensed by the Ecuadorian government to offer Galapagos National Park tours. All companies operating within the islands are subject to strict government regulations designed to protect the area's unique, fragile ecosystem. All ships provide naturalist guides, as required by the park, and visit a sampling of designated visitor areas. I recently cruised the Galapagos on Quasar Nautica's Eclipse, a masterfully outfitted and luxuriously appointed, 48 passenger expedition ship that, as company literature claims, makes a visit to the Galapagos Islands a "life seeing" rather than "sight seeing" experience.

The Eclipse is one of seven luxury yachts Quasar Nautica owns and operates in the Galapago. All depart from Baltra, a tiny island and former U.S. military outpost just north of the Galapagos' population center, Santa Cruz Island, and follow a seven-night itinerary. Quasar's itineraries offer a unique opportunity to visit many islands throughout the chain and experience the varied landscapes, ecosystems and exploration possibilities available to visitors.

The Eclipse, along with several other of Quasar's yachts, was anchored in Baltra's harbor when we arrived for a Saturday morning departure. We had been staying in Puerto Ayora on Santa Cruz Island, and arrived at the Baltra Harbor just as most of our fellow passengers arrived on one of the two daily TAME Airways flights that connect the Galagagos with mainland Ecuador. We donned lifejackets and boarded "pangas," inflatable motor dinghies that are commonly used throughout the Galapagos, for the short trip to the Eclipse.

We were warmly greeted by the crew and invited to find our cabin and then assemble in the lounge for a snack and pre-cruise briefing. Our luggage brought by separate pangas and delivered to our room while we met our new shipmates. Shortly after the mandatory lifeboat drill we were on our way to our first stop, Las Bachas beach on Santa Cruz Island.

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Las Bachas

Kid dining - this night it was hot dogs and french fries -- the Quasar kitchen staff pleased the palates of the younger set with spaghetti, macaroni and cheese and other all-American fare by request.


Getting to the visitor's sites on the islands requires boarding a panga for the trip from an anchored vessel to shore for a "wet landing" - hopping out of the inflatable panga and wading to shore or a dry one - stepping from the bobbing craft to a rock ledge or dock, both with the steady arm of a crew member or guide. Las Bachas was our first "wet landing." As we approached the white sand beach in the mid-afternoon our naturalist guide pointed out blue-footed boobies nesting on a rock close to shore and promised we would see them perform their famed dance later in the week. Our panga touched the sandy bottom offshore and we eased into the cool knee-deep water and headed for shore. We left our towels, lifejackets and other gear on the beach and set off with our cameras along a marked trail to look for coastal birds. As we followed the coast we encountered groups of large marine iguanas sunning themselves on the rocks. Colorful Sally Lightfoot crabs scampered about. This first day's leisurely walk led us to a beach marked by the rusted skeletons of two barges abandoned by the U.S. military during WW II. The name of the area, Las Bachas, comes from the Spanish-speaking residents mispronunciation of "barges."

This first walk gave us a brief glimpse of what was to lie ahead. Comments such as "there's a "so-and-so" - you'll see hundreds of them nesting when we visit "such-and-such" island on Tuesday" were common. When we arrived back at our beach some of the hardier members of our group went for a swim before returning to the ship. Most of us decided to wait for the next morning's snorkeling opportunity to test the water.

Our first return to the ship proved to be typical of all others. Our feet were hosed off to prevent us from carrying natural materials from one island to another - one way companies operating in the Galapagos help protect the unique ecosystems on each island. A light snack and glasses of fresh fruit juice were waiting. There was time to shower and then socialize on deck before our nightly briefing by one of the naturalist guides in the lounge.

During these nightly half hour sessions we were told of the next day's schedule and what we could expect to see. We were warned of any difficult trails and advised on the best type of footwear for each hike. On several occasions less strenuous walks or panga rides were offered as alternative if the main trail was too difficult for some. We happened to be sailing on one of Quasar's "Family Cruises" and in addition to the usual options the first panga on each shore excursion was often reserved for kids and any parents who wished to tag along. These groups proceeded at their own pace and usually returned to the beach with plenty of time to snorkel and swim. Several energetic and enthusiastic staff members were in charge of the kids' activities and enhanced the usual schedule with afternoon Spanish lessons, an ongoing tally of who spotted what, evening stargazing and much more. One day our group caught up with the kid's group and watched as they completed piecing together the skeletal remains of a marine iguana they had found - no high tech toys, just a bunch of kids from different countries with their heads together working on a puzzle.

Dinner the first night was served buffet style in the dining room. On the following days we would choose our dinner entrees at lunchtime unless an evening deck-side BBQ was planned. All our meals aboard the Eclipse were excellent and, since there were no assigned tables, gave us a chance to meet other passengers. That first night, after an array of deserts prepared by the Eclipse's pastry chef, most of us were ready for sleep.

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Santiago, Bartolomé, Genovesa



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Climb the 365 steps to the summit and experience the often photographed view of Pinnicle Rock.


Our second day began, as would most of the following days with soft music and a gentle prod from our cruise director, Mauricio, to get moving. Early morning and late afternoon are the best times for the viewing the animals. Breakfast began at 7. We enjoyed Eclipse's typical buffet breakfast -- fresh fruit and juices, cereal, granola, yogurt, eggs, breakfast meats, cheese and more - and then gathered on the aft deck to collect our snorkeling gear. Masks and snorkels, fins and numbered mesh gear bags were provided and we checked out what we needed for the rest of the cruise. The the first panga departed for Puerto Egas on Santiago Island at 8.

We landed on the black coral sand beach and set off across the interior of the island where we passed the remains of an abandoned salt mining enterprise. We stopped to watch a heron, standing in a clearing, slowly waving its neck like a branch of a tree as a means of camouflage. As we watched, it easily caught an unsuspecting lava lizard for an early lunch.

The trail then led along the coast, past tidal pools brimming with colorful marine creatures, to fur seal territory. Puerto Egas is one of the few islands where fur seals, the smaller, thicker furred relative of the common Galapagos sea lion, can be spotted. We found them resting in the shade, on ledges and the edges of tidal pools. We climbed on the rocks among mother fur seals curled up with their babies, examined the molted shells of Sally Light Foot crabs and, when the trail ended back at the beach, were ready to cool off in the Pacific.

As had most on board, we packed wet suits and later in the trip were glad we did, but this morning we didn't need them. We splashed right into a tropical aquarium. Colorful fish darted under us, starfish were everywhere and this was only the beginning.

Back on board we enjoyed the buffet lunch on the aft deck as we headed for our next stop, Bartolomé Island. Lunches on the Eclipse are casual and delicious - soup or ceviche, vegetable and seafood salads, several hot entrees, cold cuts, cheese and freshly made bread are followed by a selection of the pastry chef's magnificent deserts such as baked Alaska, fresh fruit mousse, cakes and tarts.

After siesta, about mid afternoon, we boarded pangas and headed for the beach on Bartolomé to snorkel around Pinnacle Rock. This time I struggled into my wetsuit on the beach and was glad I did because the water here was chilly. We headed around the point together with several new friends. Soon we were joined by a young sea lion looking for playmates. He rolled and floated among us, swimming to within inches of our outstretched arms (we aren't allowed to touch the animals, but they can touch us). Then he climbed out of the water on to a ledge near a roosting penguin and posed while everyone pointed disposable underwater cameras at him. No rewards, no treats, no fear … no kidding!

Later that afternoon our pangas made a dry landing on a stone dock near the trail to the highest point on Bartolomé. We climbed the 365 steps to the summit and were rewarded with breathtaking views of much photographed Pinnacle Rock. As we descended the sun was setting and birds were soaring. Thanks to the Galapagos National Park's efforts we were able to view the same unspoiled landscape that Charles Darwin explored.

That night we crossed the Equator on our way to Genovesa, or Tower Island. The Galapagos Islands each have several names, usually the original name found on English maps and the later Spanish name. When we woke we were anchored in Darwin Bay.

We made a wet landing on another beautiful beach and ventured out to discover the Galapagos' "bird island." This remote island is a haven for many species of birds. The most notable residents, Frigate birds and red-footed boobies, along with several types of gulls, were everywhere. Their nests on outcropping rocks and in the small bushes on shore were easy to spot and photograph. It was thrilling to catch a glimpse of fluffy young chicks as their mothers repositioned themselves on the nests. The rocky trail passed several clear tidal pools where we watched a marine iguana feeding on algae before the path ascended to a bluff with a spectacular view of Darwin Bay. Swimming and snorkeling topped off the morning.

After lunch and a siesta some of us took the opportunity to snorkel along the collapsed crater wall that surrounds Darwin Bay. I was glad I was wearing a wetsuit when I slipped over the side of the panga into the chilly water. The Brits and Californians were fine in swimsuits, but I'm used to the warmer Atlantic. We swam with dozens of tropical fish and stopped to observe the birds nesting in crevices in the crater walls above. Our guides on several snorkeling opportunities were anxious to lead us to sharks and other big name attractions, but I enjoyed floating above rocks covered with starfish while looking for brightly colored tropical fish.

Later that afternoon we made a dry landing at Genovesa's Prince Philip's Steps and climbed the rough rock stairway to a plateau where boobies, frigates and gulls were nesting. We walked along a rocky trail and spotted many species of nesting birds including a short-eared owl along the rugged cliff. The next two days we would land at visitor sites on Fernandina and Isabela Islands. On Fernandina we hiked across recently formed lava fields. On Isabella we hiked, snorkeled and explored by panga. We walked on what was the ocean floor until the 1950s when a volcanic eruption pushed it upward and made it part of the island. We saw huge marine iguanas here and found a giant tortoise resting in the shade of a tree. When we snorkeled in the area we saw many penguins and sea lions. We also saw a sea horse, almost perfectly camouflaged by the surrounding coral, and many colorful fish.

Panga rides proved to be a pleasant way to view birds nesting in the nooks and crannies. We saw penguins and sea lions resting and watched boobies dive straight into the bay like dive-bombers. On one late afternoon panga ride our guide noticed dolphins in the distance and we made our way into their midst. Hundreds of bottlenose dolphins were feeding in the area and took little notice of our panga as they frolicked in the sea at sunset. Another panga ride took us into a mangrove area where the motor was turned off and our guides paddled us quietly through narrow canals, pointing out rays, sharks and sea turtles.

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Puerto Ayora

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In addition to the Charles Darwin Research Station, Puert0 Ayora offers a chance to purchase souvenirs, film and batteries, mail postcards and check e-mail.


On Thursday morning we anchored in Academy Bay for a day in Puerto Ayora on Santa Cruz Island, the largest town in the Galapagos, with a population of about 12,000. After breakfast we made a dry landing at the Charles Darwin Research Station's dock. The National Park is headquartered at the station and visitors can observe the effort that is being made to protect the famed giant tortoises. Hatchlings from various islands are collected and brought to the station to live until they are about four years old and large enough to fend for themselves. They are then returned to their home island because the tortoises from each island have evolved differently and this ensures the survival of each subspecies.

At the station we visited the baby tortoise house, walked in enclosures with huge adult tortoises and saw "Lonesome George," the last surviving member of the Isla Pinta subspecies. He lives in a large enclosure with several females of a closely related subspecies, but hasn't yet shown any interest in breeding.

After a stop at the Station's gift shop, where profits from the sale of t-shirts and other merchandise support the facility, we wandered along Puerto Ayora's main road along the coast. The street is lined with gift shops, cafes and restaurants, small hotels, dive shops and other tourist-oriented enterprises. We stopped at an Internet café to check our e-mail (US$1 for 15 min.) and slowly made our way to the municipal dock at the other end of town, about a mile away, to catch a panga back to the Eclipse for lunch.

We had spent a few days in Puerto Ayora before boarding the Eclipse and it was like a homecoming. It was a working vacation for me but my traveling companion, my sixteen-year-old daughter Katie, remained in town while I photographed virtual tours of cruise ships. As we strolled throught the familiar town she was greeted by ice cream vendors, cybercafe proprietors and the young man at the music store like a long lost friend.

After lunch on board we returned to the municipal dock and boarded buses for an excursion to the Santa Cruz highlands. We visited a site where giant tortoises roam free and followed trails overhung with hardwood trees looking for the reptiles. Next stop was the lower entrance to the lava tubes. Tubes are formed when the surface of a lava flow hardens and the molten lava from within drains, leaving tunnels. We entered one and followed a rocky floored and sometimes low-ceilinged path to the upper entrance, where we emerged at a modern refreshment pavilion. The cool, damp weather in the highlands was a refreshing change and we had a glimpse of rural life as our bus returned to Puerto Ayora. That night, after a seafood barbeque on deck, we sailed for Española, or Hood Island, one of the most isolated islands in the archipelago.

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Española

Hundreds of sea lions rested, nursed their cubs, frolicked in the surf and pretty much ignored us as we wandered among them.


We awoke to find ourselves anchored in Gardner Bay off a long, white sand beach. What appeared to be scattered boulders in the sand turned out to be hundreds of sea lions resting on the beach. As we made a wet landing, curious young sea lions came out to greet us. We dropped our gear on the beach and walked among the sea lions, watching and photographing them. We were cautioned to keep our distance from the large bulls because they sometimes become aggressive, but we were able to get very close to the females and cubs - even the nursing mothers. We watched young siblings playfully brawling with each other in the surf, learning sea lion behavior. One young cub approached a group of children in the water and almost seemed to be inviting them to play. On shore an adult sea lion checked out one visitor's beach bag. By then we had learned to watch out for the well-camouflaged giant iguanas to avoid stepping on them, and were used to stepping over birds who had built their nests on the trails and calmly sat on their eggs or young as we passed, but to be so close to so many sea lions who showed no fear of humans was amazing.

We returned to the ship for lunch and a siesta and then we made a dry landing at Punta Suárez, truly a bird watcher's paradise. We watched masked boobies courting and blue-footed boobies dancing - they took little notice of us while completing their mating ritual. There were nesting birds everywhere, sitting on nests containing one, two or three eggs. Sometimes we caught a glimpse of downy chicks as the mothers moved around. High on a cliff we saw Waved Albatrosses roosting. We watched as the clumsy giants waddled to the edge of the cliff and plunged into the wind to become airborne in order to soar over the ocean in search of food. Española was the perfect place to spend our last full day in the Galapagos. In the dining room that night we were serenaded by members of the crew as we exchanged email addresses and promised to keep in touch with new friends we had made.

The next morning we rose early and boarded pangas for a before-breakfast visit to Black Turtle Cove, a mangrove estuary in the northern area of Santa Cruz Island. As our guides quietly paddled through the cove we spotted sharks, rays and marine turtles in the crystal clear water. We spoke in hushed voices and listened to the sounds of Galapagos wildlife one last time.

After breakfast we finished packing and headed to the lounge to wait for the pangas to take us back to Baltra's dock. The next cruise's passengers would be arriving on the plane we were about to depart on and crew members were busy readying the ship for them.

We saw our last Galapagos sea lion swimming near the dock as we boarded the airport bus for our TAME flight back to the mainland.

My daughter Katie, who was somewhat reluctant to spend two weeks in a remote area of the world with just her mother, was overcome with sadness upon leaving the Galapagos and the new friends we had made. She didn't even want to check her e-mail our first night at the Hilton in Quito and was figuring out ways to return. I like the idea of a mother and daughter operated cyber cafe in Puerto Ayora…

-- Jane Townsend
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